DIY Gel Nails: A Polished Look, but at What Cost?
Foster School of Medicine graduate examines the dangers of popular at-home nail kits
By David Peregrino
Studying skin and nail health has been a passion for Hannah R. Riva, M.D., a graduate of the Foster School of Medicine’s Class of 2025.
For one of her student research projects, Dr. Riva took a close look at do-it-yourself gel and acrylic nail polish kits with her research mentor, skin allergen expert Carina Woodruff, M.D., a Dallas-based dermatologist.
These kits, which use nail glues or gel polish, are popular because they produce vibrant, long-lasting, chip-resistant colors, compared to traditional polish. Budget-conscious consumers also like the kits’ low price and at-home convenience in contrast to expensive nail salons.
But the DIY approach is not without risk, as Dr. Riva and Dr. Woodruff determined.
At-home kits often contain acrylates, chemicals with unique adhesive and hardening properties. When used incorrectly, acrylates have a higher risk of being potent irritants and allergens.
“A real risk of at-home use of these products is the increasingly common risk of sensitization and allergy formation to acrylates. This can cause dermatitis, which results in red, itchy and sometimes blistered skin, or nail dystrophy, where the nail experiences unusual changes in shape, color or texture,” Riva said.
Because acrylates are often found in medical devices that patients may need in the future— such as orthopaedic or dental implants, “developing an allergy to acrylates can become a serious medical concern,” Riva said.
In 2020, the European Union began limiting the use of certain nail-hardening chemical compounds to professionals, but the United States currently has no restrictions on at-home kits.
“Until we see adequate label warnings on these kits, or some regulation by the FDA, dermatologists will have an important role in educating patients about the risks of at-home manicures,” Dr. Riva said.
Dr. Riva continues to pursue her interest in patients’ skin health—she’s now in Dallas, in the intern year of her residency, after which she’ll begin a three-year dermatology residency at Baylor University Medical Center.
Texas Tech Health El Paso Magazine, Fall 2025
The doctors reviewed the ingredients and warning labels of several best-selling kits.
A quarter of the kits warned of avoiding skin or eye contact with the chemicals.
None warned about chemical sensitization, where repeated exposure of chemicals to the skin or nails can trigger an exaggerated immune response.
In many people, chemical sensitization can cause symptoms requiring a trip to the doctor.
Read more about Dr. Riva’s study, “Allergens and consumer warnings in at-home acrylic manicure kits,” in the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology.